But the growing presence of the US military has brought concerns over how it would enmesh with the province’s unique culture, which the people of Itbayat have worked to protect.
Outsiders are not allowed to buy land, which in Itbayat is titled entirely to its Indigenous population.
Victor Gonzales, Itbayat’s representative to the national Indigenous council, said he worries the military could quickly increase its presence without going through the proper processes.
“We are worried about these military activities,” Gonzales said. “People don’t know what [will happen.] They add to the fear that is already there.”
Gonzales knows Itbayat will need help to defend itself in any conflict, so he has sought a middle ground whenever possible. Itbayat officials requested that the Balikatan exercises, scheduled to start on April 22, contain no live fire drills, so as not to alarm residents.
“As much as we want to protect our culture, we also want to be helped by [the] outside,” he said.
The island realised its vulnerability after an earthquake struck in 2019, killing nine people and destroying many traditional stone houses. But it also brought improvements, like a new hospital, which will be crucial in any conflict.
“It was a blessing in disguise that we had that incident,” said Emma de Sagon, a nurse at the hospital. “We were being neglected.”
The hospital would potentially help wounded troops and assist Filipinos fleeing Taiwan. But the infirmary has only 15 beds and its staff have not received specific training for war. “We would need more medicine, more supplies,” said Cecilia Antas, an administrative officer at the hospital. “We are on the front lines.”
‘Not gentlemanly’
People in Itbayat are proud of their tradition of sharing what they have, frequently giving strangers satchels of yellow turmeric rice wrapped in banana leaves. Many did not hesitate to join the reserve forces.
“I wanted to prove to myself I could do it,” said Sheila Manzano, a nurse practitioner and naval reservist who said her 13-year-old daughter encouraged her to join.
The latest group of reservists began training in December by waking up at 4am every Saturday and Sunday to go jogging and do callisthenics. They attended an in-person course on how to use weapons and received online training in fire safety and first aid.
“I’m ready, just in case,” said Kimberly Dumaliang, the area coordinator of the local Department of Social Welfare and Development and a newly graduated Navy reservist.
Dumaliang grew up in Isabela Province and was posted to Itbayat one year ago. The island is a sweeping plateau resting on steep cliffs, which have historically made it hard for invaders to reach it by sea. From above, however, there is nowhere to hide.
“It’s like a mushroom,” the 29-year-old said. “One missile will blow it away.”
When a friend mentioned the Navy was recruiting reservists, Dumaliang took the opportunity. “It’s for the good of the nation,” she said.
”We’re hoping, we’re praying we do not end up going to war,” she said. “But we’re ready for whatever happens.”
The US and Philippines, during their upcoming joint military exercises, will probably practise taking back Itbayat from a foreign occupier, a military source said.
For Eleuterio Malupa, who lived through the Japanese occupation, the threat of China seizing the strategic island – or disrupting life there during a conflict in Taiwan – is real.
“The Chinese are not gentlemanly in their treatment of other people,” he said. “We are sure that somebody will have to help us.”
Malupa is proud that his son decided to join the reserves. As he ponders the prospect of war, he allows himself to laugh. “If worst comes to worst,” he said, “I think I can still handle a gun.”
